Wednesday, June 6, 2007

Calzadilla de la Cueza under the sun

I walked today to Calzadilla de la Cueza, a small village with a church, an albergue and a bar and not much more...
The walk today was 17.2 km or so, which as such is not huge, but what made it longer is that between Carrión de los Condes and Calzadilla, there is absolutely nothing. 17 km of flat fields of cereal, and the stony way in between. Incredible!
Some people were clever enough to put a new bar exactly in the middle, and I didn't see any walking pilgrim who didn't stop for a bocadillo or at least a coffee...
Still, the experience was exhilarating, sometimes hard, but somehow it felt like I got into some kind of trance after a while of walking at the same rhythm, with the same landscape.
Now I am happy to have arrived, showered, washed my clothes and eaten, and I can relax for the rest of the day.
There is a well closeby where the water is incredibly pure and delicious, there are fields all around, and stones and dust. I am going to wait for the evening when it is not so hot, to go and walk around the village and take in the atmosphere of this small lost place in the middle of nowhere, that seems to live mostly because of its albergue.
Yesterday, Carrión de los Condes was a long day to start with, about 20km, but I felt I had to stay there for the night. I could already have stopped at the village before, about 5 km beforehand, but I felt something calling me at Carrión. I stayed at a big albergue that was part of a convent - first time so far that I am welcome into a place by nuns - and used the afternoon, despite my tired feet, to walk around the town. I even made it to the Monasterio de San Zoilo, on the way out of town. I arrived there at a time where it was open for visits, and had the incredible luck and honour of sitting about half an hour in the beautiful closter, at a time where it was bathed by the evening sun. There I understood what had called me there!!
I could almost hear the monks walking around the closter and chanting, it was so peaceful!
So today there is less to do around here and I can let my feet rest more.
They are ok so far. I can't say that they are much better than before I stopped, but somehow they go along with me and as long as I rest regularly and massage them often, they don't give me too much trouble. We'll see how it goes and if at last this path can stop being a path of suffering...

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