Thursday, May 31, 2007

sore feet, cold weather and incredible encounters

Today was my 15th day of walk.
Wow.
I thought I wouldn't have painful feet by now, but guess what! Yes, they still hurt.
I think since I overdid it one day a week ago and could barely walk when I arrived at the albergue, they haven't properly recovered. They seem to stay swollen underneath all the time now.
So if I stop often enough and massage my feet, and don't do over 20 or 22 km a day it is manageable, but they really don't let me forget about them. So I think I will take it easy again over the next few days, trying to walk 15 to 20 km a day only, which is actually quite pleasant because it means I can arrive early and relax in the afternoon. I can feel my feet are very happy about this resolution.
Apart from that it is still cold, and very windy.
I never thought I would be so cold at the end of May in Spain! But really I am walking with almost all of my clothes on me, which is a problem then when I need to wash them, because I get cold while they dry. I am hesitating to buy more jumpers or another pair of trousers though, because I am thinking, if suddently we hit a heatwave, I will have to carry them for nothing. But I suppose I could always send them to Santiago to wait for me until I get there! That is a possibility anyway.
Well I won't be able to buy anything today though, as I am staying in Castrojeriz, a little village of less than 1000 people, where the only thing I saw open was a little alimentaciĆ³n shop and a bar. Even the churches are closed, which is a pity as they are supposed to be lovely.
But well, that means more rest for me and my feet and I can take it.
I am staying in a little lovely albergue, where I could do a wash in a real washing maching, and even use the dryer!! And there is a kitchen, so I invented a dish of pasta, olives, green asparagus and sardines in tomato sauce and well, it was lovely. Exactly what I needed.
Yesterday, I left Burgos in the morning. Burgos was nice, plenty of things to see (you might understand why my feet are cross with me), but still a city, and I decided to stay in a tiny refuge 26 km out of the town, where there was no hot water, barely electricity, only a well where we could brush our teeth and wash our clothes and more if we were really up to it (I don't think anyone did much more than washing their face and hands, as the weather was cold and windy and the water veeeeery cold). It was really in the middle of nowhere, there were no toilet either, only fields around...
But it was nice and friendly and I enjoyed the peace out of the city. I felt like I could truly recharge my batteries.
I was happy to have a hot shower today and to wash my clothes though!
And now that I have learnt to let go, it feels like the encounters with people are more intense, deeper, even though they last less. So far anyway.
It is often the case on the camino that we meet people once, and then again a few days later, or sometimes much longer later, and we can then reconnect.
But I think the most incredible encounter so far is with myself.

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

Dear Armelle,

I love that line...'the best encounter is with myself'...I love that. I'm so happy for you. It sounds like you're really accomplishing a lot on this trip.

Who would have thought that a hot shower and washing ones clothes would be so wonderful...I guess one would take these things for granted until one had to do without.

Looking forward to hearing from you again.

Miss you lots,

Della