Saturday, May 19, 2007

Third day

So this is my third day.
Even though I was in Pamplona yesterday evening I didn't get a chance to go to an internet cafe.
I walked 21.5km yesterday. Thought I wouldn't manage, and had planned to stop at the town before Pamplona, 5 or 6 km beforehand, but met a nice lady from Geneva (well who lives in Geneva but originally from the German speaking part of Switzerland, near Schaffhausen), and who was walking until Pamplona, and before I knew it I was there as well.
We got the last two places in a very nice private albergue held by Germans, and populated mostly by Germans as well, and even got a nice room, just the two of us, at the very top of the house, with steep stairs to get in, a tower really. We could sleep really well and so today was much easier than if we hadn't slept well. We even got breakfast!! Not like the first morning where there was no breakfast, and the dining room was closed when we left, so we couldn't even get a coffee from the machine before leaving.
Yesterday was gorgeous and warm, so in the afternoon I went into town and tried to look for the churches that are not to be missed in Pamplona. I wanted to buy some food as well for today and yesterday evening, and by the time I had found all I wanted I was too tired to go looking for an internet cafe or indeed a church.
It seems that now, on the camino francés, there is a sort of race that every pilgrim goes through in order to find a bed in the evening. When I say evening, think 12:30 pm or so.
By 1pm at the latest, most albergues are full. That makes it very hard to enjoy the path, stop to look around, relax, take pictures, and enjoy life. Pilgrims leave the albergues as soon as possible, often just after 6am, and from then on, the main thought is: will I find a bed? Thinking that most days we try to walk 20 km or more, which takes at least 5 hours considering the weight of the bag, and the state of the path, it leaves little time for breaks or relaxation.
Because of that we are more tired. As a result when we get into a town or a city, we really have little strength left to go walking around town and play the tourist.
So really pilgrims are not tourists, and maybe that's ok, but I met many people who are disappointed that they can't take their time.
For me so far it has worked well, but I am thinking of trying and stopping every day if possible somewhere between the two usual places that most people stop at. That way I should have less people and more chances of getting a bed.
But we will see how it goes.
So far things are good, my shoulders are a bit sore, but getting better, and I feel already stronger when I am walking. Yet today is the third day and I heard that the third and fourth day are the worst. Well, if this is the worst, it is FINE!!

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